Saturday, September 27, 2008

Downtown Louisville, KY

Some scenes from downtown Louisville, Kentucky. The city is located on the south side of the Ohio River across from Indiana. The city of Louisville has approximately 250,000 residents and nearly 1 million more people live in the Louisville metropolitan area. The Louisville area is probably best known for the Kentucky Derby, held each year at Churchill Downs. The Louisville Slugger factory and museum are located in an historic part of downtown Louisville that has been reborn into a touristy area with the Slugger Museum, artists' glass studios, a children's museum, and other attractions. Louisville is also known as the home of Bourbon whiskey.

The World's Biggest Bat! Made of steel, it weighs 68,000 pounds and stands 120-feet tall. The Big Bat is an exact-scale replica of Babe Ruth's 34-inch Louisville Slugger. Bud Hillerich's signature is on the Big Bat, a tribute to the man who turned the company's first bat. It stands at the entrance to the Slugger Museum.


Barge on the Ohio River.


A Riverboat docked in the Ohio River along the seawall in downtown Lousiville.

Historic Brown Hotel in Louisville.




Saturday, September 20, 2008

Wild Eggs - Louisville, KY

Wild Eggs (3985 Dutchmans Lane) is a wonderful breakfast/brunch place in Louisville, KY. The atmosphere is sunny and cheery with a friendly waitstaff (many with piercings in non-traditional places). The pancakes (shown above) are named "The King Would Eat These." The pancakes are layered with fresh bananas, peanut butter syrup, milk chocolate chips, and fresh whipped cream. Yum!! The other dish shown above is the Creole Omelet. It contains rock shrimp, andouille sausage, bell pepper, onion, cheddar jack cheese, Creole hollandaise, skillet potatoes, and an everything muffin. According to the menu, "Everything muffins are home-made with fabulous flavors: roasted garlic, onion, poppy seeds, sesame seeds, and kosher salt." These are a restaurant specialty. If you're in Louisville, try to make it to Wild Eggs. I know I'd stop there the next time I'm in Louisville!

Food: ****
Ambience: *****
Service: ****
(out of 5 stars)

Saturday, September 13, 2008

Churchill Downs - Louisville, KY

Churchill Downs was a pleasant surprise. Although I knew nothing about horseracing, they had a nice museum and interesting tours. Of course, the racetrack is best known as the home of the Kentucky Derby. We toured the stands along with a look "behind the scenes" including the jockeys' areas, millionaires row (we saw the room where Queen Elizabeth II enjoyed the race last year), and other off-track betting areas. If you're in Louisville and have the time, I recommend spending a few hours at the track to learn a little about the industry and folklore.

Saturday, September 06, 2008

Hot Brown

According to wikipedia, "A Hot Brown is a hot sandwich originally created at the Brown Hotel in Louisville, Kentucky, by Fred K. Schmidt in 1926. It was one of two signature sandwiches created by chefs at the Brown Hotel shortly after its founding in 1923." While I did not order it from the originators at the Brown Hotel, I trust my replica from a restaurant down the street in Louisville is close to authentic. It is nothing I'd ever order again! The open-faced sandwich consists of sliced turkey on top of white toast and covered with cheddar cheese. The one I ordered was garnished with bacon and a tomato. The presentation was unappealing and the taste was uninspiring.

Saturday, August 30, 2008

Cafe Rose Nicaud - New Orleans

On my last morning in New Orleans, I had breakfast at Cafe Rose Nicaud (632 Frenchman Street). Reportedly named after a slave who first sold coffee in New Orleans, she saved her earnings and bought her freedom. The cafe is a friendly and cheerful place with high ceilings and lively conversation among what seemed like neighborhood locals. The food arrived as expected without waiting too long. I had a "southern" breakfast (above) including grits. I had a small forkful and passed on the rest.

Friday, August 29, 2008

New Orleans Authors

Several well-known authors have called New Orleans home. For example, Tennessee Williams lived in New Orleans when he wrote some of his works, including A Streetcar Named Desire, which was set in New Orleans.

The house below, in New Orleans' Garden District, was the home of novelist Anne Rice. It was the the setting for her Witching Hour novels. Note the home is for sale - I don't know the asking price.
The tall, narrow, yellow building (below) is now home to Faulkner House Books. In 1925 William Faulkner lived in what was then a boarding house at 624 Pirates Alley and worked on his first novels, Mosquitoes, and Soldiers' Pay. It is now a bookshop on the first floor and the shop's proprietor lives on the three floors above. (adapted from Frommer's New Orleans 2008, p. 226)


Thursday, August 28, 2008

Street Musicians

This trio - consisting of a young woman playing a guitar, a young man playing a trombone, and another young man with a drum - was entertaining passersby on a street corner in the French Quarter one evening.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Mississippi River

The Mississippi River is an integral part of the Crescent City. In fact, the nickname comes from the location of the city in a crescent of the river! Near the Central Business District, the river is about 1/4 mile wide, very deep and quickly flowing. Streets parallel the river and directions such as north, south, east, and west have little meaning. Instead "upriver" and "downriver" better describe which way to go. The CBD is pictured above from the ferry that goes from Canal Street to Algiers Point, a quiet neighborhood dating back to the 19th century.
The taller buildings of the CBD provide a contrast to the older, shorter buildings of the adjacent French Quarter. St. Louis Cathedral in the French Quarter sends her steeples above the surrounding buildings.

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Beignet

Beignets are French doughnuts ubiquitous among the tourist fare of New Orleans. They are fried and served covered in powdered sugar. The ones pictured above were purchased from Cafe Beignet on Bourbon Street. I later went for a reprise of the beignet experience at Cafe du Monde, a 24-hour place in the French Market (picture below). Although I didn't have it, they are noted for serving beignets with chicory coffee.

Monday, August 25, 2008

RIP

Cemeteries in New Orleans are "above ground" since the land is at or near sea level and the water table is high. Prior to doing this, bodies were buried and they would later "float" back to the surface. The cemetery pictured here, Lafayette No. 1, was founded in 1833. It is located in the Uptown Garden District.


Sunday, August 24, 2008

Garden District

Second to the French Quarter, New Orleans' Garden District draws tourists who want to view the large stately homes between St. Charles Avenue and Magazine Street. This area of Uptown New Orleans was developed after the Louisiana Purchase when Americans took control of the city.

From Wikipedia: This whole area was once a number of plantations. It was sold off in parcels to mainly wealthy Americans who did not want to live in the French Quarter with the Creoles. Originally the area was developed with only a couple of houses per block, each surrounded by a large garden, giving the district its name. In the late 19th century some of these large lots were subdivided as Uptown New Orleans became more urban. This has produced a pattern for much of the neighborhood of any given block having a couple of early 19th century mansions surrounded by "gingerbread" decorated late Victorian houses. Thus the "Garden District" is known for its architecture more than gardens per se.

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Vieux Carre

New Orleans' French Quarter is arguably the most famous neighborhood the city. It is the oldest part of the city dating back to 1734 when French colonists moved to the area. The later influence of the Spanish ownership is also evident in some of the architecture. The area is noted for the iron railings on balconies. Many of these were made by slaves in the 19th century.

Rue Bourbon (Bourbon Street) is the famous street within the French Quarter where you can find bars, strip clubs, tourist shops, and restaurants. The street is closed to traffic in the evenings and people fill the streets going from one venue to the next. Sidewalk musicians and brass bands can usually be heard along this street and in other parts of the quarter. Also you may see kids tap dancing on the sidewalk with their hat nearby.


This building is at the corner of Toulouse and Royal Streets. Royal Street is one block from Bourbon but has a distinctly different character. Many fine art galleries, antique stores, hotels, and restaurants are along this street.


The French Quarter is also home to many residences. These are located on the lake side of the Quarter, toward Rampart Street. Most windows and doors have shutters on them and the homes are painted a variety of colors.



Friday, August 22, 2008

A Streetcar Named...


Although the New Orleans streetcar line to Desire Street is no longer in service, the existing New Orleans Streetcar lines are an inexpensive and convenient way to navigate the city. Hurricane Katrina damaged most of the lines and many of the cars were flooded. At present, the system has returned to service but some of the cars are still being renovated and repaired. One line runs along the Mississippi River from the edge of Faubourg Marigny, past the French Quarter, to the Convention Center. A second line runs in the middle of Canal Street (see photos) from the river to several cemeteries near City Park that were originally at the edge of the city. A third line runs in the grassy median of St. Charles Avenue through the Garden District, past Tulane University and beyond.


Thursday, August 21, 2008

Hansen's Sno-Bliz - New Orleans, LA

Hansen's Sno-Bliz (4801 Tchoupitoulas Street) has been serving up treats for nearly 70 years. The store is run by the granddaughter of the original owners and inventors. She made each Sno-Bliz shown in the picture. The one in the foreground is Cream of Ice Cream with with a sweetened condensed milk topping. The one in the background is Cream of Strawberry topped with crushed strawberries. The granddaughter told me her grandfather invented the machine to shave the ice (it is finer than a typical snow cone) and her grandmother created the flavored syrups that are poured over the ice.


The store is located a few blocks from Magazine Street (a major street running parallel to the Mississippi, going upriver from the French Quarter) in a residential and industrial area. There is no seating inside the store. I noticed a steady flow of people through the place from my seat across the street on the porch of a bookstore. In fact, at one point, a limo pulled up and a half dozen people piled out and all got a Sno-Bliz before getting back into the limo and pulling away.

This place is certainly off the beaten path but worth the trip for the tasty treats and a piece of nostalgia. The owner is extremely friendly and seemed excited to hear that people from a distance were visiting her shop.

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

Louisiana Superdome

(The Louisiana Superdome as viewed from the train.)
  • Largest fixed dome structure in the world.
  • Largest domed structure in the world when built.
  • Structural steel frame covers 13 acres.
  • 273 foot tall dome.
  • Diameter of 680 feet.
  • Maximum football seating capacity of 72,003.
  • Maximum basketball seating capacity of 55,675.
  • A 1980s Rolling Stones concert attracted over 87,500 spectators.
  • Took four years to build (1971-1975).
  • The dome has an interior space of 125,000,000 ft³.
  • Construction cost $165 million (1975).
  • Cost $193 million to repair and refurbish after Hurricane Katrina.
  • Sheltered about 30,000 people during Hurricane Katrina.